Saturday, November 26, 2011
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
AJF is an organization highly involved in promoting and supporting the contemporary art jewelry genre. For more pictures and to view the full entry, please go to the Art Jewelry Forum blog.
Sunday, July 18, 2010
On page 86, Turner includes a passage written by Saint Jerome (ca. 347-419/420) that refers to trade in India. "Here are found carbuncles, emeralds, and shining pearls, for which desire burns int he breasts of noblewomen..."
Due to my summer class on the history of jewelry, I already knew what a carbuncle was in reference to gems. It is a red cabochon, normally a garnet but sometimes a ruby. A carbuncle is polished but not faceted. The literal translation is "little coal" or "cinder" thus the relation to red stones. Webster's online dictionary has a thorough definition which includes the word's usage associated with an angry red boil. Flashy! This may explain the term falling out of favor in the fashion world. A gem that is also an unpleasant skin condition would be a tough sell.
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
After further research, I don’t know if I entirely agree with this definition. The direct translation from French means “in slavery.”
The Antique Jewelry University website defines it as “Bracelets and necklaces in a style with plaques connected with multiple chains is called en esclavage.”
The website ADIN Fine Antique Jewelry gives this definition:
“Esclavage, French for slavery. A type of necklace composed of three chains or strings of beads or jewels in which the chains or strings hang approximately equidistant from each other. They were worn in Normandy as peasant jewelry in the mid-18th century.”
From the sold archives of One of a Kind Antiques .com was this piece:
The description also give a little history:“Collier d'Esclavage. "slave necklace". A complete example of early 19th century French regional jewelry. The gift of a "slave" necklace was a marital tradition in most of France's most fortunate regions. It symbolically represented the transmission of wealth and at the same time the bride's engagement made on the wedding day to produce a bounty of children for each additional plaque of gold and its chains corresponded to a subsequent birth. The "esclavage" was an important investment reserved for those with important means. Each chain of the esclavage necklace represents the price of a pair of oxen, or a thousand francs, which in the 19th century was a very important sum.”
Roughly translated from the blog “The collar of slavery, in gold, was in the nineteenth century, the greatest gift a husband can give to his young wife, the Empire or the Restoration.
It usually consists of several chains in festoons, generally has three connected ovals, rectangular, glazed or not.”
Side note- festoons are the floral and fauna elements draped and swaged between larger focal components.
This example is from BijouxAnciens:
Sunday, June 6, 2010
I tend to leave pieces of paper on the pages with words I don't understand as I am reading so that I may look up their meanings later. This book, though very well written, doesn't make enough of an effort to explain the french terminology. The words are just italicized and the writing moves on. Since my french is not very good, this book is riddled with my little notes.
This morning I attempted to look up the word dormeuses. Which on some online translators comes to nightcap, mopcap, or sleepers. None of which make sense in relation to jewelry.
Finally, with great relief, I found a video on youtube of an old French jeweler being interviewed and his responses were translated into English.
Les dormeuses pronounced [Fr. dawr-mœz ] translates to The Sleepers. They are earrings that have a main portion with a hook that goes through the ear. An extra ornament can be hooked on the main part's loop in order to dress it up. Called 'Sleepers" because the wearer would sleep with the main portion still in the ear and wear for everyday, only adding the dangle for special occasions or for church.
If one performs a search on Google for dormeuses earrings, all sorts of single drop and straight dangle earrings turn up which leads me to believe the term has been commandeered by uninformed jewelry marketers.
I'm going to believe the old timer on this one.