UNT featured on AJF Blog

The Art Jewelry Forum has posted an entry highlighting the University of North Texas. I'm proud to have my work help represent my graduate metals department.

AJF is an organization highly involved in promoting and supporting the contemporary art jewelry genre. For more pictures and to view the full entry, please go to the Art Jewelry Forum blog.

Carbuncle: The Gem of Inflammation

For personal summer enjoyment, I am currently reading the book, Spice: The History of a Temptation by Jack Turner. My interest in spices is in relation to commodity monies. Mr. Turner's book is a meandering read, not a bad thing, but has proved to be slow going for me. It is dense but a delight for those who appreciate details. He has researched so thoroughly his subject matter, that I feel he might have been compelled to pack it ALL in. I do believe he could have gotten at least three books out of his commendable research (if not more).

On page 86, Turner includes a passage written by Saint Jerome (ca. 347-419/420) that refers to trade in India. "Here are found carbuncles, emeralds, and shining pearls, for which desire burns int he breasts of noblewomen..."

Due to my summer class on the history of jewelry, I already knew what a carbuncle was in reference to gems. It is a red cabochon, normally a garnet but sometimes a ruby. A carbuncle is polished but not faceted. The literal translation is "little coal" or "cinder" thus the relation to red stones. Webster's online dictionary has a thorough definition which includes the word's usage associated with an angry red boil. Flashy! This may explain the term falling out of favor in the fashion world. A gem that is also an unpleasant skin condition would be a tough sell.

Below is a nice example from the Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg. It is a Sarmatian diadem from the 1st century AD.

I have run across more than one online source, such as the Encyclopedia Britannica, that suggests a carbuncle is specifically an almandine garnet, but this is its contemporary definition. General consensus of its ancient usage was any red gem cabochon. The below picture is from minerals.net and Gemhut.It does look as though it might need a medicated salve, doesn't it? As far as gems go, garnet cabochons are still reasonably priced. I got my current stash from a Dallas gem show, but Fire Mountain Gems has a nice supply. I recently used a couple in my Dollar Earrings I set and was pleased with the results. They look almost black in the picture, but in reality are a deep red.

My other current work can be found on Crafthaus.

In search of En Esclavage

For a college course this summer, I studied the history of jewelry. My textbook was the book, Jewelry: From Antiquity to the Present by Clare Phillips. It was a relatively easy read, but did not illustrate all of the foreign or obscure terms. I sure this was due to budgetary concerns. One term that was on our test but not in the book (I think) was the phrase, En Esclavage. It was presented as a type of necklace with a removable pendant as in the picture below.

After further research, I don’t know if I entirely agree with this definition. The direct translation from French means “in slavery.”


The Antique Jewelry University website defines it as “Bracelets and necklaces in a style with plaques connected with multiple chains is called en esclavage.”

The website ADIN Fine Antique Jewelry gives this definition:
“Esclavage, French for slavery. A type of necklace composed of three chains or strings of beads or jewels in which the chains or strings hang approximately equidistant from each other. They were worn in Normandy as peasant jewelry in the mid-18th century.”

From the sold archives of One of a Kind Antiques .com was this piece:

The description also give a little history:

“Collier d'Esclavage. "slave necklace". A complete example of early 19th century French regional jewelry. The gift of a "slave" necklace was a marital tradition in most of France's most fortunate regions. It symbolically represented the transmission of wealth and at the same time the bride's engagement made on the wedding day to produce a bounty of children for each additional plaque of gold and its chains corresponded to a subsequent birth. The "esclavage" was an important investment reserved for those with important means. Each chain of the esclavage necklace represents the price of a pair of oxen, or a thousand francs, which in the 19th century was a very important sum.”

This definition is echoed on other sites such as the French blog, Jewelry and Precious Stones which posted several examples.

Roughly translated from the blog “The collar of slavery, in gold, was in the nineteenth century, the greatest gift a husband can give to his young wife, the Empire or the Restoration.
It usually consists of several chains in festoons, generally has three connected ovals, rectangular, glazed or not.”

Side note- festoons are the floral and fauna elements draped and swaged between larger focal components.

This example is from BijouxAnciens:

Musées en Haute-Normandie has a nice piece in their collection.The term could certainly have been used for any manner of necklaces over the years evolving with fashion trends. In fact, contemporary examples tend to be of the fetish persuasion. Since words have different meanings depending on period and region, the example shown in class may very well be en eslavage but I believe the other examples above illustrate a more common usage of the term

The Quest for Dormeuses

In conjunction with the jewelry history books I mentioned in a previous post, I am also reading Cartier: Jewelers Extraordinary by Hans Nadelhoffer.

I tend to leave pieces of paper on the pages with words I don't understand as I am reading so that I may look up their meanings later. This book, though very well written, doesn't make enough of an effort to explain the french terminology. The words are just italicized and the writing moves on. Since my french is not very good, this book is riddled with my little notes.

This morning I attempted to look up the word dormeuses. Which on some online translators comes to nightcap, mopcap, or sleepers. None of which make sense in relation to jewelry.

Finally, with great relief, I found a video on youtube of an old French jeweler being interviewed and his responses were translated into English.




Les dormeuses pronounced [Fr. dawr-mœz ] translates to The Sleepers. They are earrings that have a main portion with a hook that goes through the ear. An extra ornament can be hooked on the main part's loop in order to dress it up. Called 'Sleepers" because the wearer would sleep with the main portion still in the ear and wear for everyday, only adding the dangle for special occasions or for church.

If one performs a search on Google for dormeuses earrings, all sorts of single drop and straight dangle earrings turn up which leads me to believe the term has been commandeered by uninformed jewelry marketers.

I'm going to believe the old timer on this one.

Jewelry Book Censorship

Today's trip to the library was rather odd, so I thought I would share. I have just finished a Maymester class focusing on the history of jewelry which I greatly enjoyed. The book that we used as a textbook was Jewelry: From Antiquity to the Present by Clare Phillips. It was a thorough text and an easy read, but I wanted to research other titles on the subject. I am in the habit of checking out a library book, either from their catalog or from the interlibrary loan system, in order to peruse a title before purchase.

While flipping through the hardcover version of 7000 Years of Jewelry by Hugh Tait, I noticed something rather strange. Purple sticky notes were placed on some of the pictures. I've been known to use stickies to mark a place in a book, but not in the middle of the page. After viewing the second set I realized the intention of their placement. They were covering up nude images in the artwork. Seriously? In the adult non-fiction section? In the twenty-first century? So for your education, I present to you:

Purple Sticky: Cleansed for Your Protection

The makeshift censorship starts very soon in the book with the covering of a performance scene from an Egyptian tomb painting.

I'm going to guess that the topless dancers on the right were too distracting for the previous reader. I'm not completely certain what he/she found objectionable about the seated double pipes player on the left. Perhaps it was because they kept such bad company.

Was the reader offended by the poorly defined grapes or the satyr's lack of clothing?

.

Looks like the cardinal virtues of Faith, Hope, and Charity had wardrobe malfunctions. Please note, the reader must have been running low on sticky notes or else the piece only warrented partial censor. Though in my opinion, that upper putti is suspect. Never trust a putti.

Noah's family was in too much of a rush to properly cover their naughty bits in the above cameo. But there was a storm a brewin'! The chickens needed to be covered 'cause everyone knows that chickens are dirty.

This Art Nouveau buckle is obviously a depiction of a woman lacking virtue and was in need of purple paper to shield viewers from her feminine wiles. Sigh. Isn't Office Depot just the best!?

Once again the puttie on the left escaped censor. Maybe it's because they are just so darn cute!

Lastly, apparently cleavage is also a sin. Cover that up woman! St. Eligius, the patron saint of goldsmiths, might be incited to lust should he gaze upon thee.

The picture is so innocuous that I barked out a laugh when I uncovered it.

Censorship? Bored student prank? I have no idea. But I do live in the bible belt and it would not surprise me if a future TX-Board-of-Education Nutjob decided that children were not to view the above images without some intervention.

I showed the library clerk the book- she thought it was funny. I, on the other hand, was disturbed. Why are depictions of the human body in art thought of as wrong, evil, dirty, or something to be hidden? None of the images covered were even remotely erotic.

If that wasn't irritating enough, the glue from the culprit's notes has left an ooky residue on the color plates. That make them twice the twit in my book.